Where WhimSea Takes Us

Wednesday left the house a little after 10 in the morning on July 3rd after loading the truck with the fresh and frozen food, clothes, books and electronics. It is amazing everything that we feel we need to bring aboard. Given the vagaries of the weather on Superior, you never know if it will be baking hot or cold, if we will be outside or stuck below watching rain squalls pass by entertained by movies. We are ready for all scenarios I think.

Thursday and Troy is quite busy installation a new solar panel control box that will allow for better output in more conditions, securing the panels, removing unnecessary items and organizing. It is hot, yesterday the thermostat below hit 91 as we were putting away our supplies. We got some relief from the heat when we went to Patsy's for burgers for dinner, but we were all wiped out, both by the heat and our exertion during the day. Today it is already 80 in the marina at 10:30. Troy filled up our ice stores and purchased flares, we only had to empty and secure Charlie before heading out. Despite the threat of rain and possible thunderstorms, there was little wind and since it will only get hotter in the marina, we decided to head out to Stockton and anchor in the bay. If the clear skies hold (doubtful), we thought we might be able to see the fireworks from Bayfield. Friday's forecast is not promising for the crossing with open water calling for widespread fog all day. While navigation is not an issue with the radar, it is usually cold and damp making things miserable.

We departed the marina by 11 on Thursday in bright sunshine and watched the clouds amalgamate over the Bayfield peninsula. There was a sailboat race underway near Madeline and all the boats began heading in as the storm built. Clearly, they cancelled the race. We passed between Madeline and Bayfield listening to the thunder and watching lightning. About halfway up Madeline and the rain hit. It's big thick drops are cold and penetrating. Troy stayed topside under a raincoat and his southwester, but his shorts are quickly soaked through. At least it will be cooler! The coast guard put out a warning to mariners to find safe harbor when we were two hours from Presque Isle bay, but we pressed on. The warning for hail, cloud to water lightning and 30 knot gusts mention only the islands nearest the mainland so we think we are at the northern edge of it.

We decided to anchor in Quarry Bay instead since it was closer and the rain was relentless. We missed most of the storms and there was a small break in the thunder allowing the boy to do some swimming which made him quite happy. Dinner of La Choy chow mein topped off by fortune cookies was followed by a rousing game of Yahtzee as rain continued to fall off and on. It was the perfect night to introduce the boy to the Princess Bride which captured his attention and imagination, especially the sword fighting.

Friday and the sun is shining hot. The boy got more swimming in as we had our coffee and a visit from Dan and Pam from Pachanga, old marina mates from Knife River. The anchor was up and we were on our way by 10:30. There is little wind so we find ourselves motoring through vast swatches of pollen interspersed with deadheads from the previous days rains washed into the lake. The boy was not happy to give up his swimming hole, but he'll be able to get back into the water at Windigo. For now, he is content to be watching movies on my tablet as we head to the Big Island.

The passage was uneventful. The fog came in making visibility low and somehow not affecting the heat of the sun. Troy laid down for a nap and I read and checked the weather. After a time, we switches up so I could nap.

The boy alternated between watching movies and checking our progress. After my nap it was much cooler, the sun now completely obscured by the fog. Long pants and jacket weather as we enjoyed a single martini before a dinner of beef stew.

The sun set with colors stretching horizontally across the sky in the breaks of clouds and fog. It was a beautiful orange, pink and red hue.

After what felt like an eternity, the Rock of Ages Light came into view. As a light among the shadows of twilight. She's always the first sign to let us know we've nearly arrived.

The first rock appeared out of the water as black sharp relief in the gathering twilight. There was enough ambient light to see the water and sky with the rocks in sharp contrast. With no moon and the stars obscured the rocks and islets of the entry are deceptive, the twilight gave them shadows on the still water lending the appearance that they were twice as large as they were. The air warmed as the island opened up Washington Harbor to us.

We were shocked to see the dock virtually empty with one small fishing boat on the rangers side. Of course there are no lights on the dock save the red warning light. So Troy lighted it with a flashlight allowing me to step easily ashore as he came to a stop. I must admit to some trepidation in docking at night in the blackness given our last experience left me in the water. Troy too. But we came in as easy as can be.

All three of us sat at the picnic table that is usually on the dock and watched as fireflies lit in the darkness of the trees. The clouds even cleared a bit showing hazy stars above. It was 11:30 when we docked. 13 hours after raising anchor.

Saturday and we awoke by 9am central to a bustling port. One plan in, another waiting to dock. The Voyaguer came in (with some difficulty) while we hit the head and as they departed the Sea Hunter waited to come in. They had trouble with the wind blowing them off the dock so we pulled WhimSea forward as far as we could to give them extra room.

We enjoyed a nice, easy day. Greetings from Steve and Valerie. Checking in and a lighthouse talk, followed by pizza and beer at the store. Dylan and I followed that with a walk to the moose exclosure where we saw a moose outside of it. Troy also saw one by the creek while we were out. Oh, and of course Dylan started the day with swimming, the little fish.

More relaxing, visit from Steve and Valerie outside of their uniforms. Other hikers too. Dinner was hot dogs and potato salad. While we were dinner for the mosquitoes we took down the outdoor living room and all retired early.

Saturday, July 13 finds us heading back to the Apostle's. Todays weather was good for the trip and Sundays seemed uncertain given they are now calling for torrential rainfall on Sunday. We are glad we decided to depart a day early.

It was so easy to become part of the island rhythm. The visits from the Sea Hunter and Voyageur bringing new hikers and day trippers on the Hunger. Each eager to start their adventure. Both vessels loading up folks for their return trips home. Throughout the trip, Dylan made many friends. Friends for a day, maybe two. But he enjoyed th time he had with them nonetheless.

We were able to entertain Steve and Valerie for dinner. Saw Andy and Ally (from Washburn Marina), met plenty of hikers, fishermen and day trippers. We met a great family from Brooklyn staying at the camper cabin that Troy taught to fish. Dylan hung out with the kids. There was the new intern, Seth, and even a visit from Marty, the historically stand offish maintenance manager!

Troy and Dylan did sail Charlie in the harbor. Dylan and I went to the moose exclosure where i saw a moose outside. It was such as trip, as if he hadn't moved, I wouldn't have seen him. I heard him though, crashing through the undergrowth. I looked up in time to see the form of the big bull moose. Ten feet away and then just as quickly he was gone. I didn't even have time to point him out to the boy.

We saw two bull moose charge out of Washington Creek, one clearly on the tail of the other. One of the divers from the dive boat Discovery (captained by Ryan) walked toward the fuel dock and ran into a bull lumbering towards the main area. Dylan was able to catch sight of it as it went up the hill towards the visitors center.

Our crossing was sunny and without rain or fog despite the threat. We anchored in Julian Bay by the light of a three quarter moon. What a beautiful night. We let Dylan stay awake. The bugs were asleep, the moon and stars were out and the frogs were singing. The boy laid down on the deck, staring up at the stars. He eventually decided he was ready for bed (a first) and went on his own.

I debated about whether this post belonged in WhimSea or Whimz given that it involves both! We are so far into the season already, but the spring weather of 2019 has not been kind to getting the boat ready for the season. That coupled with the fact that the boy has school, makes it hard to just 'run up to the boat' for an overnight.

We spent a busy weekend prepping WhimSea for our upcoming trip to Isle Royale. So much food and drink to put away. We were able to clean out the water tanks, scrub the decks and install the solar panels despite the heat (it was surprisingly hot). With the sun beating down on us and only an intermittent breeze. But we got through and got it done. So nice to have the RV to return to at night for a good nights sleep.

Overnight the storms came up with thunder and lightning in the night. In the morning the waves were crashing over the breakwall. The parking lot was full of puddles and the place was soaked and humid. We left the marina around 10:30 and hit a local restaurant for breakfast before heading home.

We now have a scant two days to be ready to head out!