Running
rigging specifications
Standing
Rigging Specifications
Upper
and Intermediate Shrouds
ISOMAT
– O’Day Boom Rigging Instructions
The following table shows the critical dimensions and materials used for the standing and running rigging on your O’Day. In the event you should need to replace any of the rigging, you can order the materials through your O’Day dealer. If this is not convenient, this table will allow you or a local rigger to obtain the proper materials. We would strongly recommend actually measuring any standing rigging before replacing, to assur 100% accuracy.
The halyards on your O’Day are low stretch Yacht Braid. This marterial was chosen for its handling ease and durability. Because of the way it is manufactured, it will not stretch as much as normal rope does.
All running rigging should be checked periodically for chafe or damage and replaced when necessary. If excessive wear is noted on running rigging, check all blocks and sheaves to be sure they are free to rotate and are properly aligned. This is especially important in roller furling systems where the halyard sits in the same place constantly. Be sure to lower your sail periodically and check the halyard.
All standing rigging should be inspected for cracks in the swages, proper installation of cotter pins, and wear on clevis pins. Replace any damaged or suspect rigging IMMEDIATELY.
As you may have noticed on some sailboats, the swaged ends of the shrouds will ooze rust and in severe cases the swage will split. One way to prevent this problem is to lightly heat up the swaged section and place a bar of beeswax against the 1x19 stainless steel wire. As it melts, the beeswax will run into the swaged section, sealing it from the elements.
Your jib furling gear is manufactured by an outside supplier and furnished to O’Day. Please call the manufacturer for any parts and refer to your manual or consult your dealer with any questions.
ISOMAT
|
Title |
Size |
Type |
Length |
A End |
B End |
Extra Info |
|
Main Halyard |
7/16 |
XLS-Red |
120’ |
93-75 |
Whip |
|
|
|
7/16 |
XLS-Blue |
122’ |
NF15000S |
Whip |
|
|
Main Sheet |
½ |
TRO-Red |
68’ |
Eye |
Whip |
|
|
|
½ |
TRO-Blue |
48’ |
Whip |
Whip |
Two |
ISOMAT
|
Title |
Size/Const |
PCL |
Fitting A |
Fitting B |
Extra |
|
Headstay |
3/8 |
54’ ½” |
NG II B&E 5/8 104-12/5/8 DJT |
NAV |
|
|
Backstay |
5/16 |
56’ 4 ¼” |
NG II Stemball 2” cup |
NAV |
|
|
Cap |
3/8 |
52’6” |
NG II Stemball 2” cup |
NAV insert 12-20 U bolt |
Machine for ½” U bolts without toggle |
|
D2 |
9/32 |
37’5” |
NG II Stemball 2” cup |
NAV 9-14 U bolt |
Without toggle |
|
D1 Forward |
5/16 |
21’0” |
NG II Stemball 2” cup |
NAV 10-16 U Bolt |
|
|
D1 Aft |
5/16 |
21’ 3 ½” |
NG II Stemball 2” cup |
NAV 10-16 U Bolt |
|
|
Topping Lift |
3/32 LL |
49’ 0” |
Nico w/thimble (SM) |
Nico with thimble (LG) |
|
Damage to wire rigging, even imperceptible nics, can substantially reduce the strength of the wire. Such damage can lead to sudden and unpredictable rigging failure, loss of the mast and possible injury to occupants.
Accordingly, it is good practice to have you rigging regularly inspected by a professional rigger. In addition, you should carefully inspect the full run of all stays at least twice each year. Special attention should be given to the swage areas and any area that is subject to wear or damage, such as the headstay where the spinnaker pole may hit, or the spreader tip area.
If there is any damage or deterioration, such as broken strands or nicks, or if there is any question as to the condition of a piece of rigging, replace the rigging immediately.
[insert standing rigging diagram here]
1. Rigging the mast
Installation of the standing and running rigging should be performed by your O’Day dealer or his agent, as they are most knowledgeable of the way your O’Day mast is rigged. Elsewhere in this booklet are rigging lengths and dimensions to help in any replacement that may be needed. We also STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you measure any rigging before replacing it, to assure accuracy.
All sheaves should be checked for free movement and all tangs for correct lead angle before the mast is stepped. Tape any sharp edges.
2. Stepping the Mast
Stepping the mast on a boat of this size is not a job for amateurs and should only be done by professionals with the correct equipment. Your O’Day dealer can perform this service or recommend a competent professional.
Be sure to check all cotter pins, clevis pins, and the spreader base and end fittings to be sure that they are secure. Be sure the upper shrouds are wired where they pass over the spreader tip. Be sure to tape the spreader ends before stepping the mast or installing spreader boots. Be sure to slip the mast boot over the mast.
NOTE: Check all mast lights for function prior to stepping the mast. Be sure all turnbuckles are fully open.
Step the spar throughout he deck and onto the mast step. Be careful not to pinch the wires during the stepping. ALWAYS KEEP ANY PART OF YOUR BODY OUT FROM UNDER THE MAST DURING STEPPING.
PRIOR TO SAILING, BE SURE TO INSTALL THE TIE-ROD TURNBUCKLE FROM MAST TO THE DECK. Attach the turnbuckle by dropping the “Tee” shaped turnbuckle stud in the slot on the forward side of the mast collar.
Tighten the turnbuckle hand tight. Do not overtighten, as this will cause a deck depression. When sailing, check to see that the deck is not flexing. After checking turnbuckle tightness, insert cotter pins. Periodically, check the tie-rod for adequate tension. This tie-rod prevents deck flexing, caused by halyard and rig loads.
[Insert ISOMAT mast tie rod system illustration here]
NOTE: The mast step was set at the factory to provide proper mast rake. The mast step is adjustable, and the mast rake can be changed, if necessary, by loosening the mast step bolts and sliding the step for or aft. Mast rake should be about 6”. Be sure to attach all mast light wires to their proper connections in the mast step before setting down the mast.
The mast ground wire should also be attached and the mast wedges inserted at this tim. All stays and shrouds should then be attached, and the mast wedges inserted. The wedges should keep the mast in the center of the mast collar. Now, tighten the headstay, backstay, and upper shrouds to a hand-tight condition. For now, leave the intermediate and lower shrouds slightly slack. Adjust the headstay and backstay to achieve a straight spar. This can be checked by sighting up the mast track on the aft side of the spar. Next, tighten the upper shrouds tog et the mast straight athwartships. To check athwartships’ straightness, measure, with the main halyard, the distance from the masthead to the aft lower shroud chaninplate. If the distances on each side are within one inch, the mast is satisfactorily straight. Next, tighten the intermediate srouds, checking that the mast stays straight while tightening. At no time should you be tightening more than one or two turns beyond hand tight. Finally, tighten the fore and aft lower shrouds. Once again, check constantly to be sure that the mast stays straight both fore and aft and athwartships while tightening.
Final tuning must be accomplished while sailing. In a 6-8 knot breeze, adjust the shroudes to achieve a straight spar on either tack. Care should be taken not to overtighten the rigging. Some slack in the leeward shrouds is normal, when sailing in 6-8 knot winds.
The rigging will need adjustment after a few sails to compensate for any wire stretch. Be sure to install cotter pins in all the clevis pins and turnbuckles, and bend them over and tape them.
Starcraft Sailboat Products has no specific rig tension recommendations. Such tensions are applicable only in extreme racing situations. This procedure will provide excellent mast tune in 95% of all sailing conditions.
NOTE: Final tuning for best performance will depend on local sea and wind conditions and the cut and set of your sails. Consult your dealer or your sailmaker for advice.
WARNING: WHEN HAULING, LAUNCHING, AND SAILING, BE SURE TO WATCH FOR LOW OVERHEAD POWER WIRES. CARE MUST BE TAKEN THAT THE MAST DOES NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH SUCH WIRES. CONTACT BETWEEN THE MAST OR RIGGING AND POWER WIRES COULD CAUSE THE MAST AND/OR RIGGING TO CONDUCT ELECTRICITY AND CAUSE INJURY OR DEATH.
PLEASE NOT: When installing the upper and intermediate shrouds on the O’Day 40, the intermediate shroud goes through the forward hole of the upper spreader base and the forward hole in the lower spreader tip to the forward of the two middle chainplates. The upper shroud goes from the masthead through the forward hole in the upper spreader tip, then through the aft hole in the lower spreader tip to the aft of the upper middle chainplate.
ATTENTION: DO NOT CROSS THE UPPER SHROUDS IN THE MASTHEAD.
[insert Mast Deck Collar illustration here]
The chainplate rod system used on
the shrouds of your boat is designed to carry rigging loads to the structural
floor pan. IT IS IMPORTANT THAT THE
INSTALLATION BE CHECKED FOR PROPER ROD TENSION.
The system is designed to
After the boat is launched and the spar installed, but before the rigging is tightened, the rods should be taut. Pulling on the rod, at mid-height from pan to deck, you should notice a very slight deflection. If the rod is loose, it should be tightened. After final rigging and a few early sailings, recheck the rod tension. If the deck is deflecting at the chainplates, the rod needs further adjustment.
To tighten the rod, remove the cap on the pan a the base of the rod and get a wernch on the nut. Above the pan is a flat spot on the rod. Use another wrench or locking pliers to turn the rod. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. If the rods are too tight, with the rigging slack, the deck could be pulled down, creating a depression on deck and damage to the gelcoat surface.
The U-Bolt, to which the turnbuckle attaches, is bolted through the deck to an aluminum plate that holds the top of the rod. Annually, the u-bolt should be disassembled and rebedded. When reinstalling, tighten the u-bolt nuts to a snug condition. Again, do not overtighten, or you will damage the deck finish. After reinstalling the u-bolt, be sure to check the chainplate rod tension.
The Isomat boom supplied with your O’Day Yacht is set up with an internal outhaul, an internal topping lift adjustment, and two internal reefs, which can be led to the cockpit.
The outhaul consists of a rope exiting below the gooseneck, which leads to a 3:1 internal tackle, which then leads out the aft boom end as a wire with a shackle, which fastens to the clew of the sail. The outhaul line has a stopper at the gooseneck end to hold the line secure.
The topping lift consists of a wire which attaches to the masthead and has a block at its lower end. The aft end of the topping lift line should lead up through the block and then down and tie it on the boom end. The boom height can then be adjusted from the gooseneck by use of the line stopper.
The reefs (see diagram) consist of two color-coded lines that exit on the outer sheave of the boom. The aft end of the line should lead up through the leech-reef grommet and then down to the boom where it should either tie to an appropriate boom bail or through the sail foot grommet. NOTE: Be sure to use the bail or foot grommet DIRECTLY UNDER the leech-reef grommet. Exiting the gooseneck of the boom are two ends for each reef line. The line on the large/upper roller should exit downward to a block installed on the mast collar and then through the deck turning block to port and aft to the port sheet stoppers. The line coming off the small/lower roller should exit downward to a double block mounted on the bail assembly below the gooseneck. The line should then go up (port line to port – starboard line to starboard) through the small wire guide next to the gooseneck and then up to the reef-leech grommet. If your sail has a leech grommet, put the line through the grommet, and then tie a figure 8 knot in it to prevent its pulling back through. If your sail has a “D” ring at the reef area, then just tie a small bowline through the “D” ring.
To reef, simple ease the main halyard to the correct spot and pull on the reef line until both reef grommets are firm on the boom. It is strongly recommended that you practice reefing at the dock in calm weather until it is second nature. Also, you can mark the main halyard at each reef point, so that you can ease the halyard immediately to the correct point.
See also section “J” under operation.
[insert reefing illustration here]