Where WhimSea Takes Us

Headed up to Washburn on Thursday night after work. We were on the road by 6:30 and made good time all the way to Moquah. There was still a detour in place due to the flooding in the area, so we had to go through Moquah to get to the marina. We had an appointment to drop off Bug and didn't want to keep John waiting long. As we turned down towards Moquah and were surprised to find traffic stopped dead. It turned out there was a fatal motorcycle accident just outside of town. We were held up for a little over a half hour while the emergency crew came in. Since they came from Ashland, we didn't see anything, not even flashers, so it was really odd. We finally made it to Washburn and dropped off Bug and hit the sack, planning to pack the boat in the morning.

Friday with northeast winds called for, we knew it would be a fight to the island, so we stayed at the marina and got a lot of work done. The water heater now works, got a new set of batteries and some gelcoat repair done to fix a gouge made in the Apostle Islands Marina.

An early dinner of fish and chips from Patsys and early to bed followed.

Saturday and we were off the dock by 5am and headed to the Island. We had a fairly uneventful crossing. There were some swells left over from Fridays winds, but we ended up motoring the whole way. Fifteen hours and we were dropping the hook in Washington Harbor.

Sunday found us in fog waiting for space at the dock. We waited for other boats to depart then pulled up the hook and headed to the dock. Both the Voyageur and the Sea Hunter came in after we were docked. The Sea Hunter was carrying a group of folks that travel about taking lighthouse tours. We hoped the fog would lift enough for them to see the lights around the island. Of course the boy went swimming and later in the day a sailboat docked with another seven year old boy giving him the boy someone to play with. Abbey Road, who was carrying a crew of Boy Scouts were also there and really good with the boy, giving him tours of their boat. They even jumped in and did some swimming with Dylan.

The next day, Monday, Abbey Road departed, but another boat slid into her spot, which is actually our favorite berth as it gives Dylan a good place to swim and play on Charlie. But he enjoyed himself just the same having learned the joys of jumping off the boat and climbing the dock ladder.

Charlie was still on deck and we weren't up for taking her down just yet, so we went for a hike looking for thimbleberries. While we did find a few, there weren't many ripe enough quite yet. It was a beautiful hike though. Not too many hills to worry about and there was even a beautiful little amphitheater on the nature trail overlooking a stream. So peaceful and serene.

More swimming followed the hike and then dinner and a movie before bed.

Tuesday and the other boats on the dock departed. So we worked WhimSea around to our favorite spot and the boy got to do even more swimming. We did a bit of entertaining. Elmer on the Wind Calm was back and we met Tim who had his 20-something foot sailboat at the finger docks.

We also got some fish as Elmer had come in with both Trout and Salmon and when he went to bring it all ashore, he dropped his fillet knife in the water. We have one on board and gave it to him. He was on the first few days of a fishing trip and not having a knife would really curtail it. While we meant to have the fish that evening, the talking went on much longer then expected. We met three guys from Detroit as well. They stopped by looking for some whiskey (which of course we don't have) but Troy broke out the scotch instead.

A little while later a hiker came up begging for some beers. It turns out it was his first trip and he was from Northeast Minneapolis, but they arrived too late to buy beer from the store. While we had no beer to offer, we were able to give him a couple of bottles of sparkling wine instead. We found out the next day it was his honeymoon, so it was pretty appropriate.

Dinner of hot dogs, the fish would have to wait, a movie and bed.

Wednesday and it was calm enough, at least in the morning, to take Charlie down and work on her. Troy redid the standing rigging with Steve's help and now she is much more taut. Unfortunately, the wind came up and we were not going to put her in the water since Dylan would just beg to go out.

Dylan put on his ranger hat and vest and was up at the Visitor Center telling everyone of the wonders of the island. It was sweet of Val to come and tell us what a good job he was doing.

And I almost forgot the swimming! Steve had put on his wet suit and dove for Elmer's knife so he and Dylan jumped in together a few times. Dinner and the fish is finally cooked, it tasted great grilling them on cedar planks.

Thursday and it is still too windy for Charlie. But Steve is still off work so he came down and offered a tour of his boat Jibou, and it is sweet. Beautiful interior, the rudder is so smooth and it looks like a great pocket cruiser.

Friday and Dylan finished his book to earn another park badge. We went up to the Visitors Center so he could go through his booklet with the ranger. He was pretty proud to earn that badge and everyone in the Center stopped to watch him repeat his oath.

Since we were at the Center, Steve brought us in the back offices and showed us all the pirate flags the rangers had made for the Island. They were pretty cool.

Afterward, the boys got the sail on Charlie and took her out for a sail.

Saturday and we headed back towards Washburn. Since we had a little time yet, we stopped at Stockton, dropping the hook in Julian Bay. It was a beautiful night and so relaxing to be able to stop and chill a bit on the way home.

Sunday we went back to the marina and picked up Bug who was very excited to see us. In talking with John, it sounded like Bug had a vacation of his own with lots of hiking and playing with John, his dad and his girlfriend. Another awesome trip in the books.

We arrived at the marina Thursday evening, loaded up and put on water determined to head out in the morning, regardless of the forecast. They were calling for a small craft advisory with 10-20 knots of wind.

The morning dawned bright, sunny and warm with the wind directly on our nose, of course. We headed to Stockton Island in the hopes that the weather report would keep other boats in the harbor.

We were in luck. We arrived to find space and with the boys begging for a swim. The thunderstorms that followed us from the mainland were building ominously, but there was enough time for the boys to get a swim in before we were chased in by the rain. After the storm passed, they were back in the water spending hours together swimming.

We spent the weekend at the dock with the boys getting hours of water time in before heading back to the marina on Monday.

Saturday would find us at the Apostle Islands Marina. We enjoy visiting this marina as it is so close to town and allows for easy exploration. Dylan likes the marina because of the closeness of the city park. He really enjoyed playing with the other kids in the playground. They even have a really cool looking dragon made of tires to climb around on.

After some playground time, we decided to walk up to town for some brunch. We ended up at the Moneypenny Bistro where they have an outside deck where they allow dogs, actually cater to them with water bowls and dog treats. We enjoyed mimosas and omelettes, delicious.

We then walked over to the local museum where Dylan somehow managed to lock himself in the pilot house that they have out front for kids to play around in. Luckily he was out again pretty quickly and we were able to continue exploring town.

The next day, Sunday would find us heading out to Stockton Island. Nice thing about Sunday in the Apostle's, is you can usually find dock space and we did. The boys enjoyed water time and got a bunch of swimming in before we had to head home on Monday.

Friday, June 29
We left Andover with a full truck, including a sack on the roof. Not enough time this year to bring up the many supplies we needed since WhimSea was being worked on earlier in the season. The drive up took a solid four hours, what with our usual route still washed out. Looks like it may be that way the whole season.

We arrived a little after 1pm to the vet that would be boarding Bug during our trip. Isle Royale does not permit dogs to the island. The island is home to the longest running predator-prey study (Wolf-Moose) and legend has it that some couple brought their dog to the island in the 80s and the virus it carried ashore decimated the wolf population as they hadn't previously been exposed to it.

After dropping off Bug, we went to work transferring the contents of the truck to the boat and figuring out where we would stow it all. Not an easy feat.

One of the items transferred was a set of new solar panels. Troy had finally found the combination of solar power and inverter that would allow us to generate ice and break our need to visit civilization after four days of isolation. Assuming, of course, he could get it all installed before we left.

We both toiled in heat indexes around 90, but it was well worth the effort. All things were stowed and the panels installed and we tested the set up. Not only did we get ice, but we also had the refrigerator running on high with no problem! Yeah!

After the long day toiling, we felt we earned a beer and enjoyed Patsys Friday Night Fish Fry with a couple of nice cold South Shore Nut Brown Ale's and an early bedtime for all.

Saturday
Saturday would find us sleeping in and then completing the last minute chores and inevitable run to the grocery store for the items forgotten. More food to find places for, but we managed.

We left the marina at 2 in the afternoon in 90 degree weather. Plagued by black flies and melting in the sun, we threaded our way through the islands.

Fog and chill descended as we left Outer Island in our wake, making the sun, when it did set an orange glow in the fog around us.

We picked our watches, I would be up for the first three hour stretch and Troy would bring us in for the rest. Shortly after he laid down, however, I had a strong signal on the radar I was certain was a freighter and thought it heading straight for me. It's so easy to get turned around in the fog. In between trying to see it and pick it up on the radar I must have turned a complete circle, so they blew their horn, confirming for me it was, in fact, a freighter. I backed the engine down until I could spot them, which caused Troy to dash up to find out what was amiss. He came up in such a hurry he wasn't even wearing his glasses!

I spotted the vessel though only the fore and aft lights were visible above the fog. He had tooted his horn again and that helped, since I could not hear his engine above ours and the fog. I sent Troy for his glasses and when he came back I had put WhimSea back into gear and they were rapidly falling behind us.

The boys went back to bed and I continued my solitary vigilance. Given the fog, there were no stars to gaze at, with the lack of light, reading was also out.

An hour after Troy went back to bed, the wind abruptly shifted to the north, definitely stronger than the predicted five knots. A cloud also descended on the boat. We were surrounded by clear, whispy whiteness so thick I could not see beyond the cockpit. And it was cold. The damn press relentless, and I had two hours left in my watch. I was happy when 1:30 rolled around and I could wake Troy for his shift. Of course by then the cold had entered my bones and it took some time to get warm and fall asleep.

I woke when Troy slowed entering Washington Harbor, got dressed and went topside. It was warmer above than below. The fog was still present and we were pretty close to the dock before spying an opening. We docked and were tying off the lines when Dylan woke. Arrival time, 6:15 central.

Sunday
Since we arrived shortly before the Ranger Station would open, Michigan time, we thought we would stay awake, so we made coffee and set up the couch, chairs, table and rug.

We checked in and said hello to old friends (Steve!) and returned to our coffee. I bartered a plate of freshly caught and fried fish for a bag of homemade carrot bread and light rain began to fall. So, we put up the awning and earned a hard time from Ranger Steve about 'roughing it' on the island.

We took everything down around 11 and laid down to catch up on some well needed sleep.

Feeling refreshed, full from sandwiches, we trekked to the store for Dylans beloved frozen Icee. There we learned the folks from the store spend some of their off-season in Africa teaching English. How cool is that!

The rain came in with a fury and fervor then, drenching everything in its path and cleaning off the long dead fly carcasses from the passage through the islands. We hung out a bit under the protection of the pavilion before heading below for a movie and popcorn. By the time the movie had ended, the skies had cleared and a dry wind was blowing and the hope of a clear day tomorrow is upon us.

Monday
A beautiful sunny day, though far too windy for the boy to play in Charlie. There were white caps in the harbor and fog in the open water lending a chill to the air.

We set up the chairs and enjoyed coffee and carrot bread. And we didn't really leave. That progressed to breakfast pizza and mimosas.

Though the boy and I did take a walk to the moose exclosure where we saw big piles of moose poop. There were, after all, 1800 moose on the island.

The sun and wind continued with lots of folks stopping by. Steve and Maria Wilson from Detroit, who were staying in the cabins with their three kids among them. They have been trying to visit every state park and were heading to Voyageurs afterword. Steve and Valerie Martin, the Rangers who have worked the island for years. Bob and May on the Eagles Nest regaled us with tales of their three year adventure bringing the boat from Seattle. Wow they had some amazing times.

We were finally able to bring Charlie down from the deck as the wind died with the waning of the sun and the boy was content. He had tried swimming earlier in the day (Troy took him to the boat launch) only to find it too cool to stand it. But now he had the ability to row. He was happy.

We were finally chased in by the mosquitos with night fall. A little browner, a little more relaxed.

Tuesday
Still at Windigo. I made coffee while the boy rowed in Charlie and Troy visited topside. It was a very pleasant day at Windigo. The boy spent the day rowing and swimming and making up stories. The sun was out so we put up the awning and also charged the solar lights. The wind was light but cool when it blew at less than five knots making it nice to sit outside.

At the end of the day the three of us sat in the stillness of the night listening to the night calls of the loons and chirping of the birds.

Wednesday
The day dawned sunny and hot. So hot in fact that I almost jumped in the water! The boy was out of the boat in a flash and in charlie. The weather was unsettled though with wind and storm clouds coming and going throughout the day. We put the awning up and took it down multiple times.

The folks we met in Washburn came in to the dock around mid-afternoon and Dylan finally had someone to play with. I couldn't coax him out of the water, even to eat!

That evening we had invited Steve and Valerie to dinner. The rangers had been working Isle Royale for over 20 years and event met out there. Fascinating folks with a history emeshed with the Park. They had worked a number of other parks (separately) before coming here and calling it home. They had such great stories of the folks that came year after year. The people who used to live on the island that they've met and the adventures shared. Steve should really write a book of oral histories he has heard. It was amazing.

At the end of dinner, the folks from Washburn joined us. Andy and Ally.

Thursday
Another absolutely beautiful day. The boy was sad to find his friend Simon gone (they had to return to the marina), but he quickly rebounded with a jump in the lake. After coffee, I decided Dylan and I would go on a little adventure. We rowed down to Washington Creek hoping for a moose sighting.

Since the boy kept hanging over the side and putting his hand in the water to 'test the temperature', he affected the boat's trajectory. It resulted in the boat slipping from one side to anther. So, I turned the boat around and began rowing facing forward.

We went quite a ways up the river, even singing our special song (the theme song to Grizzly Adams) before deciding to turn around, or more accurately, start rowing the other way. Of course, the boy kept throwing the track off by putting his hand back in the water, so I turned around again to face the direction we were heading and there in front of us stood a big bull moose! Just watching us a bit before bending down and continuing his eating. He was magnificent. He was also at the mouth of the river so we had to edge by, ever so slowly against the other side of the river. He was an amazing sight with his great, grand rack.

We returned to the boat after and the boy continued his swimming while Troy put up the mast and lies on Charlie in the hopes of a sail later in the day or Friday.

To make it complete, he event raised a pirate flag at the top of the mast. As the rangers had called it a day and taken down the American flag, Troy decided to raise a pirate flag on the pole! The pirate ship WhimSea sacked Washington Harbor! It looked pretty cool and the other boaters must have thought so as well as they took pictures too.

Troy took down the flag and we threw some hot dogs on the grill when we came across some hikers in dire need of food that was anything but dried or reconstituted. We offered dogs and chips and visited well into the evening until the mosquitoes chased us below.

Friday
Another beautiful day, which will prove to our final day on the island. Sunshine and light wind made it attractive to swim but proved to be a tad cold.

Dylan and I again went on an adventure looking for moose in the creek. Alas today we didn't find any. But still, it was beautiful on the creek and we did see an osprey hunting. We'd been watching their displays much of the week. So impressive when they dive for fish that I find myself cheering each time that they succeed.

A nice relaxing day all-in-all. Early to bed as we plan to depart the dock at first light in the hopes of making it back to the marina before dark.

Saturday
Off the dock at first light after making coffee. Troy saw our bull moose friend as we were leaving, but the sun was positioned such that I couldn't see him.

Traveling past the reefs outside the entry we noticed the bilge pump kept going off. This wasn't good. Dylan was still abed and Troy did some investigation, eventually identifying an intake hose that was leaking. He was able to effect at sea repairs and we continued on our way.

The day was sunny, but a fog bank was ahead, so Troy set up a proximity alarm, which would allow some relief from the wind behind the dodger. I took the first watch and sent Troy to napping.

It was there, behind the dodger, I was alternating between reading a book and peering out for boats when the alarm went off. I moved behind the helm to investigate and heart a faint chirping of a song bird. Out here, I thought? In the middle of the lake? Far away from land? And then I spotted her. Flying around the ship and looking for a safe place to alight. She went to port, starboard, avoiding the rigging and quite masterfully, before landing under the dodger and resting.

She hopped about, investigating, and I recall thinking that I would not care if she pooped on things when she took to wing, flew off and popped in the water, then came back! So considerate.

Her last visit, I heard her chirping behind us and I feared she missed. I looked frantically in the water behind us and on the swim platform, only to find her perched on the wheel not a foot away looking at me.

I felt so blessed by the visit that I cannot say. The rest of the trip was fairly uneventful and we reached the marina around 11:00pm.