Where WhimSea Takes Us

Saturday would find us at the Apostle Islands Marina. We enjoy visiting this marina as it is so close to town and allows for easy exploration. Dylan likes the marina because of the closeness of the city park. He really enjoyed playing with the other kids in the playground. They even have a really cool looking dragon made of tires to climb around on.

After some playground time, we decided to walk up to town for some brunch. We ended up at the Moneypenny Bistro where they have an outside deck where they allow dogs, actually cater to them with water bowls and dog treats. We enjoyed mimosas and omelettes, delicious.

We then walked over to the local museum where Dylan somehow managed to lock himself in the pilot house that they have out front for kids to play around in. Luckily he was out again pretty quickly and we were able to continue exploring town.

The next day, Sunday would find us heading out to Stockton Island. Nice thing about Sunday in the Apostle's, is you can usually find dock space and we did. The boys enjoyed water time and got a bunch of swimming in before we had to head home on Monday.

Friday, June 29
We left Andover with a full truck, including a sack on the roof. Not enough time this year to bring up the many supplies we needed since WhimSea was being worked on earlier in the season. The drive up took a solid four hours, what with our usual route still washed out. Looks like it may be that way the whole season.

We arrived a little after 1pm to the vet that would be boarding Bug during our trip. Isle Royale does not permit dogs to the island. The island is home to the longest running predator-prey study (Wolf-Moose) and legend has it that some couple brought their dog to the island in the 80s and the virus it carried ashore decimated the wolf population as they hadn't previously been exposed to it.

After dropping off Bug, we went to work transferring the contents of the truck to the boat and figuring out where we would stow it all. Not an easy feat.

One of the items transferred was a set of new solar panels. Troy had finally found the combination of solar power and inverter that would allow us to generate ice and break our need to visit civilization after four days of isolation. Assuming, of course, he could get it all installed before we left.

We both toiled in heat indexes around 90, but it was well worth the effort. All things were stowed and the panels installed and we tested the set up. Not only did we get ice, but we also had the refrigerator running on high with no problem! Yeah!

After the long day toiling, we felt we earned a beer and enjoyed Patsys Friday Night Fish Fry with a couple of nice cold South Shore Nut Brown Ale's and an early bedtime for all.

Saturday
Saturday would find us sleeping in and then completing the last minute chores and inevitable run to the grocery store for the items forgotten. More food to find places for, but we managed.

We left the marina at 2 in the afternoon in 90 degree weather. Plagued by black flies and melting in the sun, we threaded our way through the islands.

Fog and chill descended as we left Outer Island in our wake, making the sun, when it did set an orange glow in the fog around us.

We picked our watches, I would be up for the first three hour stretch and Troy would bring us in for the rest. Shortly after he laid down, however, I had a strong signal on the radar I was certain was a freighter and thought it heading straight for me. It's so easy to get turned around in the fog. In between trying to see it and pick it up on the radar I must have turned a complete circle, so they blew their horn, confirming for me it was, in fact, a freighter. I backed the engine down until I could spot them, which caused Troy to dash up to find out what was amiss. He came up in such a hurry he wasn't even wearing his glasses!

I spotted the vessel though only the fore and aft lights were visible above the fog. He had tooted his horn again and that helped, since I could not hear his engine above ours and the fog. I sent Troy for his glasses and when he came back I had put WhimSea back into gear and they were rapidly falling behind us.

The boys went back to bed and I continued my solitary vigilance. Given the fog, there were no stars to gaze at, with the lack of light, reading was also out.

An hour after Troy went back to bed, the wind abruptly shifted to the north, definitely stronger than the predicted five knots. A cloud also descended on the boat. We were surrounded by clear, whispy whiteness so thick I could not see beyond the cockpit. And it was cold. The damn press relentless, and I had two hours left in my watch. I was happy when 1:30 rolled around and I could wake Troy for his shift. Of course by then the cold had entered my bones and it took some time to get warm and fall asleep.

I woke when Troy slowed entering Washington Harbor, got dressed and went topside. It was warmer above than below. The fog was still present and we were pretty close to the dock before spying an opening. We docked and were tying off the lines when Dylan woke. Arrival time, 6:15 central.

Sunday
Since we arrived shortly before the Ranger Station would open, Michigan time, we thought we would stay awake, so we made coffee and set up the couch, chairs, table and rug.

We checked in and said hello to old friends (Steve!) and returned to our coffee. I bartered a plate of freshly caught and fried fish for a bag of homemade carrot bread and light rain began to fall. So, we put up the awning and earned a hard time from Ranger Steve about 'roughing it' on the island.

We took everything down around 11 and laid down to catch up on some well needed sleep.

Feeling refreshed, full from sandwiches, we trekked to the store for Dylans beloved frozen Icee. There we learned the folks from the store spend some of their off-season in Africa teaching English. How cool is that!

The rain came in with a fury and fervor then, drenching everything in its path and cleaning off the long dead fly carcasses from the passage through the islands. We hung out a bit under the protection of the pavilion before heading below for a movie and popcorn. By the time the movie had ended, the skies had cleared and a dry wind was blowing and the hope of a clear day tomorrow is upon us.

Monday
A beautiful sunny day, though far too windy for the boy to play in Charlie. There were white caps in the harbor and fog in the open water lending a chill to the air.

We set up the chairs and enjoyed coffee and carrot bread. And we didn't really leave. That progressed to breakfast pizza and mimosas.

Though the boy and I did take a walk to the moose exclosure where we saw big piles of moose poop. There were, after all, 1800 moose on the island.

The sun and wind continued with lots of folks stopping by. Steve and Maria Wilson from Detroit, who were staying in the cabins with their three kids among them. They have been trying to visit every state park and were heading to Voyageurs afterword. Steve and Valerie Martin, the Rangers who have worked the island for years. Bob and May on the Eagles Nest regaled us with tales of their three year adventure bringing the boat from Seattle. Wow they had some amazing times.

We were finally able to bring Charlie down from the deck as the wind died with the waning of the sun and the boy was content. He had tried swimming earlier in the day (Troy took him to the boat launch) only to find it too cool to stand it. But now he had the ability to row. He was happy.

We were finally chased in by the mosquitos with night fall. A little browner, a little more relaxed.

Tuesday
Still at Windigo. I made coffee while the boy rowed in Charlie and Troy visited topside. It was a very pleasant day at Windigo. The boy spent the day rowing and swimming and making up stories. The sun was out so we put up the awning and also charged the solar lights. The wind was light but cool when it blew at less than five knots making it nice to sit outside.

At the end of the day the three of us sat in the stillness of the night listening to the night calls of the loons and chirping of the birds.

Wednesday
The day dawned sunny and hot. So hot in fact that I almost jumped in the water! The boy was out of the boat in a flash and in charlie. The weather was unsettled though with wind and storm clouds coming and going throughout the day. We put the awning up and took it down multiple times.

The folks we met in Washburn came in to the dock around mid-afternoon and Dylan finally had someone to play with. I couldn't coax him out of the water, even to eat!

That evening we had invited Steve and Valerie to dinner. The rangers had been working Isle Royale for over 20 years and event met out there. Fascinating folks with a history emeshed with the Park. They had worked a number of other parks (separately) before coming here and calling it home. They had such great stories of the folks that came year after year. The people who used to live on the island that they've met and the adventures shared. Steve should really write a book of oral histories he has heard. It was amazing.

At the end of dinner, the folks from Washburn joined us. Andy and Ally.

Thursday
Another absolutely beautiful day. The boy was sad to find his friend Simon gone (they had to return to the marina), but he quickly rebounded with a jump in the lake. After coffee, I decided Dylan and I would go on a little adventure. We rowed down to Washington Creek hoping for a moose sighting.

Since the boy kept hanging over the side and putting his hand in the water to 'test the temperature', he affected the boat's trajectory. It resulted in the boat slipping from one side to anther. So, I turned the boat around and began rowing facing forward.

We went quite a ways up the river, even singing our special song (the theme song to Grizzly Adams) before deciding to turn around, or more accurately, start rowing the other way. Of course, the boy kept throwing the track off by putting his hand back in the water, so I turned around again to face the direction we were heading and there in front of us stood a big bull moose! Just watching us a bit before bending down and continuing his eating. He was magnificent. He was also at the mouth of the river so we had to edge by, ever so slowly against the other side of the river. He was an amazing sight with his great, grand rack.

We returned to the boat after and the boy continued his swimming while Troy put up the mast and lies on Charlie in the hopes of a sail later in the day or Friday.

To make it complete, he event raised a pirate flag at the top of the mast. As the rangers had called it a day and taken down the American flag, Troy decided to raise a pirate flag on the pole! The pirate ship WhimSea sacked Washington Harbor! It looked pretty cool and the other boaters must have thought so as well as they took pictures too.

Troy took down the flag and we threw some hot dogs on the grill when we came across some hikers in dire need of food that was anything but dried or reconstituted. We offered dogs and chips and visited well into the evening until the mosquitoes chased us below.

Friday
Another beautiful day, which will prove to our final day on the island. Sunshine and light wind made it attractive to swim but proved to be a tad cold.

Dylan and I again went on an adventure looking for moose in the creek. Alas today we didn't find any. But still, it was beautiful on the creek and we did see an osprey hunting. We'd been watching their displays much of the week. So impressive when they dive for fish that I find myself cheering each time that they succeed.

A nice relaxing day all-in-all. Early to bed as we plan to depart the dock at first light in the hopes of making it back to the marina before dark.

Saturday
Off the dock at first light after making coffee. Troy saw our bull moose friend as we were leaving, but the sun was positioned such that I couldn't see him.

Traveling past the reefs outside the entry we noticed the bilge pump kept going off. This wasn't good. Dylan was still abed and Troy did some investigation, eventually identifying an intake hose that was leaking. He was able to effect at sea repairs and we continued on our way.

The day was sunny, but a fog bank was ahead, so Troy set up a proximity alarm, which would allow some relief from the wind behind the dodger. I took the first watch and sent Troy to napping.

It was there, behind the dodger, I was alternating between reading a book and peering out for boats when the alarm went off. I moved behind the helm to investigate and heart a faint chirping of a song bird. Out here, I thought? In the middle of the lake? Far away from land? And then I spotted her. Flying around the ship and looking for a safe place to alight. She went to port, starboard, avoiding the rigging and quite masterfully, before landing under the dodger and resting.

She hopped about, investigating, and I recall thinking that I would not care if she pooped on things when she took to wing, flew off and popped in the water, then came back! So considerate.

Her last visit, I heard her chirping behind us and I feared she missed. I looked frantically in the water behind us and on the swim platform, only to find her perched on the wheel not a foot away looking at me.

I felt so blessed by the visit that I cannot say. The rest of the trip was fairly uneventful and we reached the marina around 11:00pm.