Where WhimSea Takes Us

We arrived at the campground at dusk, rather surprised by the lack of trees. There were a few campsites occupied, including, of course, the one next to ours. Given that it was halfway through October, the water and most of the bathrooms were winterized already already. Had it been earlier in the season, the site would have been perfect for its proximity to the head. But it was closed. There was, however, an open head at the nature center.

The next day we checked in, since they were closed when we arrived, and asked about a new site. Alas, they were fully booked for the entire weekend. We shouldn't be surprised, I guess, it was MEA weekend after all.

So, we returned to our site and got re-set-up. The site next to us had a fifth wheel, truck and trailer with ATVs. Quite a full site. We were surprised to see them parking in the adjacent campsite, but thought maybe they had thought ahead and rented two spots.

They eventually headed out with their ATVs and we pulled down the bikes to explore. It was a nice park, however, the sites were far too close together and there just weren't enough trees to block out the other sites.

The boy and I played the ladder game, and we were swarmed by ladybugs! They were everywhere. I absolutely need another vacuum for the RV. As it was, I didn't even have a broom. More things for the purchase list.

The park began to fill up, including the spot our neighbors were parking their ATV trailer in. I guess they didn't rent two spaces after all. So, when they returned they had to find another spot for their trailer. They took another site and went about fixing one of their ATvs. Luckily, they were able to finish before the person that actually rented that site showed up and they had to move once again. It became a bit of a game to watch.

In the meantime, the boy was busy making friends and running around the park. They played a game with flashlights in the growing dusk. Ghost in the graveyard I think they called it. It seemed to consist of them screaming and running about. But he was having a blast, clearly.

Another new camper and the neighbor is once again kicked out of the spot they were squatting in. They finally resigned themselves to using their own campsite, storing the ATV trailer and truck there instead. I guess our entertainment is finished.

Another night of kids running about in the dark, screeching and suddenly another adventure is over and we were packing for home.

Willow River Campground

We were all packed up and ready to head out for a nice RV weekend at the Willow River Campground. Close enough to home that holiday traffic won't affect us much, far enough that it would be an adventure.

And suddenly it strikes us, we won't have a power hook up! What to do? Of course we must pick up solar panels, that will get us through. We did try to switch to an electrical site, to no avail.

We got to the site and were all set up fairly quickly.

Saturday we set up the solar panels without issue and got the frig turned on. Afterwards, we decided to go on an excursion to the nature center. Little did we know, it would be quite a trip. The trail to the Nature Center (via bike) was quite hilly with some trips down hill being a little scary even!

The Willow River area without the damn was wild, to say the least. Large blocks of stone that appear to be dropped willy nilly in the riverbed. Overgrown with weeds yet abutting what was clearly a swimming beach.

The return trip to the RV was particularly hard, given it was completely up hill. There were multiple times the boy gave up and just walked his bike uphill. I can't say I blame him. We likely covered a good four miles on our bikes.

We had dinner made over the fire. Very relaxing after a taxing day. Dylan did pull out his new lawn game and we played a couple of times. Of course, he won.

Sunday we decided to hike to the falls themselves. The path down was exceedingly steep. We were disappointed by the amount of garbage along the trail, but the boy was quite the trooper and did a great job picking up garbage along the way to the river.

We did stop at the old gravesite along the way and saw their view of the river. The machinery strewn along the riverbed was quite the sight to see.

The falls themselves were quite remarkable. The way the water fought the stone to make its way to ground, so amazing. The only negative being the garbage of those that came to visit and that they left behind. Disgraceful really.

The trip back up the hill was much harder then the trip down. I barely made it, despite multiple stops along the way. But up the hill we made it and back to the RV we were.

The boy also discovered the playground and how much he enjoyed it. So many kids, so much fun. We woke early on Monday and packed up while the boy played. Back home early enough that he's ready for his first day of school.

So many days ahead of us and zero plans except to drop Bug with John for his vacation. Do we go back to Isle Royale? Do we bum around the islands? We have supplies for either option aboard.

Before our trip, Troy had commissioned the marina to replace our starter. This will turn out to be very important. But they got the work done before we headed up.

Saturday we headed out to Frog Bay to anchor for the evening. Given the lack of wind we motored the whole way and anchored without incident. The boy enjoyed swimming (of course) and we enjoyed not being tethered to land and not having to bring Bug ashore. An excellent anchorage and a very peaceful evening.

Sunday, after coffee and listening to the weather, we decided to head towards Stockton Island. We started the engine, pulled up anchor and headed in that direction. We had some wind an decided it would be a good day to take our time and sail there. The wind was somewhat fickle, but we stuck it out until we reached Stockton.

But then. No engine.

No matter what Troy tried, she just wouldn't start. We had plenty of battery power, but no dice. We pointed towards the marina and debated trying to sail back, but when our speed dropped to half knot, we called for a tow. Thank goodness for Black Warrior and TowBoatUS unlimited towing insurance. At least it was Sunday, we reasoned, the marina would be fairly empty and we wouldn't attract too much attention.

Alas, the fate's were not with us as the breakwall in the marina was lined with former shipmates from Knife River! I guess we were meant to head back to catch up with them. We had a great visit and hoped that the marina could fix the engine Monday.

Monday, it did end up being a quick fix and the marina felt badly about the issue. We were back off the dock and heading out again towards Stockton and Presque Isle Bay. Thankful that we didn't go to Isle Royale.

We dropped anchor and Dylan went swimming. After a bit, he convinced Troy to take him ashore and I dropped a line in the water. We had seen a boat go into the dock that looked remarkably like Rain or Shine, but convinced ourselves that it couldn't be Dave and Debi. The boat was too small, the canvas not brown.

Soon, however, I heard a familiar voice from the kayak visiting the boat anchored next to us. It's Dave! We couldn't believe it. He came over to WhimSea and chatted me up a bit before heading ashore to visit with Troy and Dylan Shortly after, there was a commotion ashore. Dylan's submarine had gone missing. All three searched for it for quite some time before Dylan eventually 'followed the clues' and 'discovered' the submarine buried in the sand and marked with a rock, right where he left it.

Eventually the boys bid Dave goodbye, making plans to meet up the next day and returned to the boat.

Tuesday dawned bright and clear with a fair wind to sail out of the anchorage. Though we hit some areas of little wind, we were eventually cooking along on our way to Raspberry Island where we planned to anchor with Rain or Shine.

Along the way we saw our old marina mates from earlier in the week and spent time hailing them on the radio. Suddenly, we were hailed by a new, yet familiar voice. It was Ted and Carol, formerly of the Seven C's. They had sold the boat and left Knife River before we did. They had another boat and were anchored in Raspberry Bay, not far from our intended anchorage. They would let us get settled and dinghy over for a visit. What an amazing trip with so many voices from the past.

Alas, it wasn't meant to be as the engine wouldn't fire as we went to anchor. Once again, we were forced to consider a tow back to the marina. Unfortunately, Black Warrior was having technical difficulties and we couldn't reach them. We decided to begin sailing back after making arrangements to meet up with Dave and Debi at Cornucopia Marina the next day.

We eventually got the tow company via phone and they towed us back once again. Hoping, of course, for an easy fix. Luckily it was, but by then it would be too late to get the boat all the way to Cornucopia, so we decided instead to drive there and meet up with Dave and Debi for dinner. Unbeknownst to us, the local restaurant had closed so we ended up driving to Bayfield for dinner. We had a great dinner and a wonderful visit before returning to the marina for the night, intent on heading back out again in the morning.

The next day found us heading to Raspberry Bay where we were able to connect with Ted and Carol for a great visit and loads of swimming. We also spent some time exploring ashore, more swimming, fishing and boat watching.

We were able to spend the last days bumming about the islands and enjoying ourselves immensely before returning, picking up Bug and reluctantly returning home.

Wednesday left the house a little after 10 in the morning on July 3rd after loading the truck with the fresh and frozen food, clothes, books and electronics. It is amazing everything that we feel we need to bring aboard. Given the vagaries of the weather on Superior, you never know if it will be baking hot or cold, if we will be outside or stuck below watching rain squalls pass by entertained by movies. We are ready for all scenarios I think.

Thursday and Troy is quite busy installation a new solar panel control box that will allow for better output in more conditions, securing the panels, removing unnecessary items and organizing. It is hot, yesterday the thermostat below hit 91 as we were putting away our supplies. We got some relief from the heat when we went to Patsy's for burgers for dinner, but we were all wiped out, both by the heat and our exertion during the day. Today it is already 80 in the marina at 10:30. Troy filled up our ice stores and purchased flares, we only had to empty and secure Charlie before heading out. Despite the threat of rain and possible thunderstorms, there was little wind and since it will only get hotter in the marina, we decided to head out to Stockton and anchor in the bay. If the clear skies hold (doubtful), we thought we might be able to see the fireworks from Bayfield. Friday's forecast is not promising for the crossing with open water calling for widespread fog all day. While navigation is not an issue with the radar, it is usually cold and damp making things miserable.

We departed the marina by 11 on Thursday in bright sunshine and watched the clouds amalgamate over the Bayfield peninsula. There was a sailboat race underway near Madeline and all the boats began heading in as the storm built. Clearly, they cancelled the race. We passed between Madeline and Bayfield listening to the thunder and watching lightning. About halfway up Madeline and the rain hit. It's big thick drops are cold and penetrating. Troy stayed topside under a raincoat and his southwester, but his shorts are quickly soaked through. At least it will be cooler! The coast guard put out a warning to mariners to find safe harbor when we were two hours from Presque Isle bay, but we pressed on. The warning for hail, cloud to water lightning and 30 knot gusts mention only the islands nearest the mainland so we think we are at the northern edge of it.

We decided to anchor in Quarry Bay instead since it was closer and the rain was relentless. We missed most of the storms and there was a small break in the thunder allowing the boy to do some swimming which made him quite happy. Dinner of La Choy chow mein topped off by fortune cookies was followed by a rousing game of Yahtzee as rain continued to fall off and on. It was the perfect night to introduce the boy to the Princess Bride which captured his attention and imagination, especially the sword fighting.

Friday and the sun is shining hot. The boy got more swimming in as we had our coffee and a visit from Dan and Pam from Pachanga, old marina mates from Knife River. The anchor was up and we were on our way by 10:30. There is little wind so we find ourselves motoring through vast swatches of pollen interspersed with deadheads from the previous days rains washed into the lake. The boy was not happy to give up his swimming hole, but he'll be able to get back into the water at Windigo. For now, he is content to be watching movies on my tablet as we head to the Big Island.

The passage was uneventful. The fog came in making visibility low and somehow not affecting the heat of the sun. Troy laid down for a nap and I read and checked the weather. After a time, we switches up so I could nap.

The boy alternated between watching movies and checking our progress. After my nap it was much cooler, the sun now completely obscured by the fog. Long pants and jacket weather as we enjoyed a single martini before a dinner of beef stew.

The sun set with colors stretching horizontally across the sky in the breaks of clouds and fog. It was a beautiful orange, pink and red hue.

After what felt like an eternity, the Rock of Ages Light came into view. As a light among the shadows of twilight. She's always the first sign to let us know we've nearly arrived.

The first rock appeared out of the water as black sharp relief in the gathering twilight. There was enough ambient light to see the water and sky with the rocks in sharp contrast. With no moon and the stars obscured the rocks and islets of the entry are deceptive, the twilight gave them shadows on the still water lending the appearance that they were twice as large as they were. The air warmed as the island opened up Washington Harbor to us.

We were shocked to see the dock virtually empty with one small fishing boat on the rangers side. Of course there are no lights on the dock save the red warning light. So Troy lighted it with a flashlight allowing me to step easily ashore as he came to a stop. I must admit to some trepidation in docking at night in the blackness given our last experience left me in the water. Troy too. But we came in as easy as can be.

All three of us sat at the picnic table that is usually on the dock and watched as fireflies lit in the darkness of the trees. The clouds even cleared a bit showing hazy stars above. It was 11:30 when we docked. 13 hours after raising anchor.

Saturday and we awoke by 9am central to a bustling port. One plan in, another waiting to dock. The Voyaguer came in (with some difficulty) while we hit the head and as they departed the Sea Hunter waited to come in. They had trouble with the wind blowing them off the dock so we pulled WhimSea forward as far as we could to give them extra room.

We enjoyed a nice, easy day. Greetings from Steve and Valerie. Checking in and a lighthouse talk, followed by pizza and beer at the store. Dylan and I followed that with a walk to the moose exclosure where we saw a moose outside of it. Troy also saw one by the creek while we were out. Oh, and of course Dylan started the day with swimming, the little fish.

More relaxing, visit from Steve and Valerie outside of their uniforms. Other hikers too. Dinner was hot dogs and potato salad. While we were dinner for the mosquitoes we took down the outdoor living room and all retired early.

Saturday, July 13 finds us heading back to the Apostle's. Todays weather was good for the trip and Sundays seemed uncertain given they are now calling for torrential rainfall on Sunday. We are glad we decided to depart a day early.

It was so easy to become part of the island rhythm. The visits from the Sea Hunter and Voyageur bringing new hikers and day trippers on the Hunger. Each eager to start their adventure. Both vessels loading up folks for their return trips home. Throughout the trip, Dylan made many friends. Friends for a day, maybe two. But he enjoyed th time he had with them nonetheless.

We were able to entertain Steve and Valerie for dinner. Saw Andy and Ally (from Washburn Marina), met plenty of hikers, fishermen and day trippers. We met a great family from Brooklyn staying at the camper cabin that Troy taught to fish. Dylan hung out with the kids. There was the new intern, Seth, and even a visit from Marty, the historically stand offish maintenance manager!

Troy and Dylan did sail Charlie in the harbor. Dylan and I went to the moose exclosure where i saw a moose outside. It was such as trip, as if he hadn't moved, I wouldn't have seen him. I heard him though, crashing through the undergrowth. I looked up in time to see the form of the big bull moose. Ten feet away and then just as quickly he was gone. I didn't even have time to point him out to the boy.

We saw two bull moose charge out of Washington Creek, one clearly on the tail of the other. One of the divers from the dive boat Discovery (captained by Ryan) walked toward the fuel dock and ran into a bull lumbering towards the main area. Dylan was able to catch sight of it as it went up the hill towards the visitors center.

Our crossing was sunny and without rain or fog despite the threat. We anchored in Julian Bay by the light of a three quarter moon. What a beautiful night. We let Dylan stay awake. The bugs were asleep, the moon and stars were out and the frogs were singing. The boy laid down on the deck, staring up at the stars. He eventually decided he was ready for bed (a first) and went on his own.

I debated about whether this post belonged in WhimSea or Whimz given that it involves both! We are so far into the season already, but the spring weather of 2019 has not been kind to getting the boat ready for the season. That coupled with the fact that the boy has school, makes it hard to just 'run up to the boat' for an overnight.

We spent a busy weekend prepping WhimSea for our upcoming trip to Isle Royale. So much food and drink to put away. We were able to clean out the water tanks, scrub the decks and install the solar panels despite the heat (it was surprisingly hot). With the sun beating down on us and only an intermittent breeze. But we got through and got it done. So nice to have the RV to return to at night for a good nights sleep.

Overnight the storms came up with thunder and lightning in the night. In the morning the waves were crashing over the breakwall. The parking lot was full of puddles and the place was soaked and humid. We left the marina around 10:30 and hit a local restaurant for breakfast before heading home.

We now have a scant two days to be ready to head out!